“More often than not, I go on city breaks when I’m travelling, so for this trip I was imagining something very relaxing. I stayed at La Segreta, a restored farmhouse, set on a 70-acre natures preserve. It is really a very magical place, picture perfect to be honest. I had researched a little before heading off, but actually being in a place rather than looking at pictures online is a very different feeling. The place felt amazing from the start!

It would be the easiest thing to say I was inspired by a place called La Scarzuola. A unique place that is difficult to put into words, but maybe it is best described as an architectural fantasy of sorts, master minded by the architect and artist Tomasi Buzzi. Behind an unassuming 16th century monastery lies Buzzi’s surreal ‘ideal city’, made up of seven theatres each with their own unique character and story. You have to see it to believe it. Visiting this place and walking around here was pretty mind blowing. And at the same time I think inspiration often comes when you least expect it, when you are getting lost rather than knowing your destination. I found lots of architectural inspiration in the town of Todi, where I also discovered the artwork of Beverly Pepper outside a beautiful church. On top of it all I would say Eileen and her family’s hospitallity and welcome at La Segreta made a huge impression too.

For my Jaunt Forma artwork I’ve created a piece based on my trip to Todi, a lovely small town to explore. The assemblage piece and accompanying screen print we produced give form to these memories. The colour palette is based on the colours I came across during my trip and have their roots in the surrounding landscape and the architectural environment of the towns I visited.”

Travel diary

Friday, March 22, 2019

Day 1 - Surrounded by the seasons.

Waking up in the most rural location I have ever stayed is pretty spectacular. Surrounded by rolling hills and an amazing picture of the seasons changing. My plans initially were to create a colour palette inspired by the Umbrian landscape and our first day confirmed this was a good idea. From the lush green of the hills to the pink blossom starting to flower
on the trees and the toasted orange light on the landscape as the sun sets. 

Having no car was always going to be a challenge in a location like this but being enthusiastic walkers we plan our first hike to a nearby village called Collazzone. I love the contrast of manmade and nature so a small village like this, perched on a hill is perfect for our first Umbrian adventure, of course I am drawn to the oddities along the way, things that jar or contrast with the incredible beauty of the location. The interior decor of our lunch spot particularly floats my boat with some pretty unique paintings of lions – the food and wine are both excellent too. ( Al Leone in Collazzone)  

The day ends sharing a bottle of fantastic organic wine made by La Segreta by the fire outside, enveloped by the fields and reflecting on the day and tomorrows adventures. I make pasta ( of course) with a sauce that has spring onions I pulled from the ground of the farmhouses vegetable patch. This small taste of self sufficiency is pretty magical…roll on
tommorrow…

Saturday, March 23, 2019

Day 2 - Trip to Lodi

We start the day as we mean to go on with some eggs ( laid by the resident chickens at La segreta of course) before heading to another town perched on a hill but a much bigger one than Collazzone so a little more to explore.

As we come into the town we are greeted by 2 large iron sculptures that contrast beautifully with the texture of the town and the natural landscape, I discover from Eilleen of la Segreta that a retrospective of the artist Beverly Pepper is taking place in the town. Making discoveries like this is one of the reasons I love travel as a source of inspiration so much. Its getting away for the algorithms and the corners of the internet where everyone else is looking. I doubt I would have found Peppers work had we not made this trip to Umbria.

Pepper has another 2 sculptures outside a wonderful symmetrical church, Il tempio di San Fortunato. There is much to like about this building but I’m particularly drawn to the fact that the bottom half is detailed and decorative and the top has been left completely unfinished , whether they ran out of time , money or patience it makes for an interesting contrast. Inside is a similar story with beautiful simplicity in the materials and small areas of excessive decoration.

The rest of the day is spent exploring the narrow streets of Todi, and stumbling across one wonderful archway after another before a fantastic meal and some wine at a little restaurant right by the Pepper sculptures called Vineria San Fortunato.

Sunday, March 24, 2019

Day 3 – Staying local

Another sunny day and rather than planning to see another town or city we decide to stay local, embrace being completely rural and go on a long walk around the local area. We head towards a place called Collepepe, meandering through fields, farmland & olive groves. We find some good pasta & wine ( as per usual ) and walk back via our most local place for amenities Collazzone, heading back to la Segreta at the golden hour as the sun is setting… ready to hatch an exciting plan for tomorrow.

Monday, March 24, 2019

Day 4 – La Scarzuola & a view

One of my favourite days so far as we got a bit of a locals tour of the region. Finding spots we would have never done alone. Having found a place called La Scarzuola online just one hour away from La Segreta Eileen arranged we meet with Umbrian Locals Gessica & Edourdo who took us there.

La Scarzuola is a difficult place to describe, an architectural fantasy of sorts master minded by the architect & artist Tomasi Buzzi. Behind an unassuming 16th century monastry lies Buzzi’s surreal “ideal city”made up of 7 theatres each with their own unique character and story , I’ll allow the images to do all the talking but for me it was a ‘must’ while in Umbria.

High off crazy architecture Gessica & Edourdo suggested their favourite restaurant close by run by 85 year old Angelino, ‘Peppa e Angelinos’. The entrance was fuscia pink with a picture of the pope, it was set on the out skirts of a pine forest and the smell coming form the kitchen was great - just when I thought things couldn’t get any better than la Scarzulola. Seven (!) rather large courses later and full of wine and limoncello on top it was time to leave, Gessica suggested a detour via here favourite viewing spot in the region.

After riding down a dirt track that any English driver would have done a u turn on we arrived and after a short walk ( picking wild asparagus along the way) we reached a beautiful view where the river Tevere meets lake Corbara . We stayed till the sun set.

Another exceptional day in Umbria (be it one where I may never be able to look at another plate of food again!) it was great to have met Edourdo and Gessica and experience Umbria their way.

Tuesday, March 25, 2019

Day 5 – Montefalco

Another day eating excellent pasta and chasing shadows and archways but this time in the small Umbrian town of Montefalco.

The day ended with a tour of Eileen & Lorenzo’s cantina where they make their wonderful natural wine. We learnt about the process whilst eating delicious pecorino and bruschetta.

Very sad to be leaving this magical place tomorrow, but looking forward to spending a day at la Segreta, collating all my inspirations and making a start on some drawings based on my experiences and photographs, before we need to set off for our flight back to London.